Gossip Tree Circle Skirt

I muse upon circle skirts...

When Casey announced her Circle Skirt Sew-Along, I was very excited, because I love the blank canvas of a circle skirt.  Plus ever since Patty created her Circle Skirt Calculator, I've been plotting to add circle skirts to my wardrobe, so Casey was just adding to my motivation.

Note my awesome caramel super shiny vintage men's loafers..

Now truth be told, this adorable Tina Givens print (Gossip Tree from her Treetop Fancy line) was supposed to be a full circle skirt with 4 gores. The way the one way directional repeat worked in this print, I felt like it would be maximized by centering the gores on the directional (ironically, this attention to direction was paid immediately after cutting out my "Everyone Makes Mistakes" skirt, but before said mistake was discovered.)

Unfortunately, I cut out my last gore overlapping where I cut out the waist on my third gore, making it appear to have a butchered scalloped edge.  So it became a three-gore 3/4 circle skirt.  So it goes.

Honestly I love the way it hangs.  I finished the waist with bias tape cut from the same fabric and used an invisible zipper in center back following the great tutorial on the Coletterie.  I absolutely love how a shirt looks tucked into this non-waistband finish.  I have been so in love with belts and wide waistbands lately, I was surprised at how flattering this looks.

I finished with a simple rolled hem pressed 1/4", and then rolled another 1/4" and sewn once. My skirt is still plenty swingy as you can see.

So in recap here are the 3 circle skirts in my Fall Palette Wardrobe...

half-circle

3/4 circle cut in gores!

Full circle (fully lined in medium weight cotton)

Who can pick?  I love the economical use of fabric in a half-circle, but that extra quarter step to a 3/4s is so lovely in the draping.  It occurs to me that the soft fluid drape of the plaid suiting in my full circle is far less dramatic than the results with the stiffer fabric cut into gores with the 3/4s.  No matter I love them all.

But here is the true bliss of the circle skirt, no?

Skyline Circle Skirt

I've been thinking about circle skirts a lot lately.  I have several plaid suiting/wool skirts planned for Fall/Winter wardrobe building, and although I am an impatient girl, and you have to let your circle skirt hang before hemming,  I do feel like there is no substitute for how you feel when you rock a circle skirt.   Casey is having a sew a-long, where she's showing how to draft a circle skirt- and Patty recently posted a fantastic Circle Skirt Calculator showing how to alter and or draft full circle, 3/4 circle, and half circle skirts! 

Here's my favorite skirt of the summer, my half-circle skirt made from fabric with a printed panel just made to create a border!  On a circle skirt, since the entire hem is curved, you can't use regular border fabrics to decorate your hemline with a mid-century style illustrated skyline, so when I was at Walmart 5 or 6 years ago, I couldn't resist adding this panel to my stash. 

Simplicity 4236 still available!

It must have been a cross-promotion with Simplicity, since the printed panel is represented right on the Simplicity pattern envelope, but it was ever so easy to make the skirt without any pattern, since the panel did most of the work for me!  All I had to do was measure the length I wanted my skirt to be from the hemline to find my waistline, and mark that width accordingly!  I used packaged piping to face the hem, to accent the skyline illustration, and to add some body to the skirt much like horsehair braid would.  It worked really well!

A circle skirt just makes a girl FEEL angelic. 

I used 1 1/2" black elastic to make the waistband.  I sewed it on like a facing, and I can wear it up with the black showing, or turn it all the way in like a facing.  I've been wearing tucked in shirts with this all summer, so I've really loved the belt-like effect of the solid contrast waistband.  The quality of the black elastic I used, is sadly lacking, however.  It's already showing threads, and I will have to replace it soon.  It was packaged elastic also bought at Walmart, but it's Dritz, and I am confused as to why the Dritz elastic by the yard would be twice as sturdy.  I am sad, because this elastic is very soft and comfortable.  It will be easy to replace, but boo for having to do so.

Other than elastic quality issues, there's nothing I don't really like about this skirt.  I have a black tulle skirt to layer under it as soon as I can stand to wear something lined in nylon poly again, and I think the lines of this skirt are immensely flattering to me.  I feel so girly and angelic too!  I guess technically, since this is a half-circle skirt, I feel like half an angel.. But stash busting totally made me feel like I brushed that l'il devil who constantly encourages me to buy new fabric right off my shoulder!  For one project anyway...

I'm really excited to be sewing along with Casey too!  In the combined interest of stash-busting and wardrobe building, I'm hoping to add one full circle skirt (in an awesome red and blue classic wool plaid), a 3/4 circle skirt (yet to be determined), and to finish a half-circle skirt I cut out last Fall that is completely Anthro-inspired with a contrast hem facing..

A Biased Afternoon..

We got the Joel Dewberry Heirloom line in at the store, nearly a month ago, and yet I hadn't made anything- not even a schmatte, out of any of its gorgeousness yet.  So when I found I was going to get to teach the Bias Skirt class, I was struck by a hard fast need to create.

This is Kwik Sew 3003, a simple oull-on skirt cut on the bias.  It has two options, to make the skirt in two pieces, back and front, or to make the skirt in 4 pieces where you can use a striped fabric to make a cute slimming chevron effect.  I just knew this marble stripe pattern was perfect to chevron.

joel dewberry heirloom "marble stripe" in jade

see how the bias hugs my girly & feminine belly?

In a bias cut, the pattern pieces are cut diagonal to the warp or lengthwise grain of the fabric giving the garment more stretch, drape and “cling”.  In a simply cut skirt like this, with a curvy figure, the "cling" provides a LOT of sass.  I have wide hips, but a mid-western recessed tail-feather, so a bias-cut does a lot to create some booty curves.

This pattern could not have sewn up faster.  Even with my careful stripe matching, the cut-out took about 40 minutes, and sewing it up took maybe 40 minutes- and that's with store business going on!  It has an elastic waist, so I am thinking of making an obi-style wrap belt like the one from the Knit N' Woven Dress used in Patty's class..Kwik-Sew 3758 so I can have a tucked in shirt option, or a nipped in waist option.  Maybe out of a coordinate from the Heirloom line like one of these two.

Empire Weave in Dandelion

Heirloom Opal in Jade

But with a skirt cut on the bias, maybe it makes more sense to not tuck or nip, and let the curves roam free-range...

Sorry I felt the need to stylize the photos of myself so much.  The bright sunshine required that the contrast be amped up, and the additional filters just followed naturally..

There's still room in my Bias Skirt Class on Thursday, September 1!  It's 3 hours, from 6-9, and you can register online!

Blossom Blockade

Tune in tomorrow for the second bias skirt I made that same afternoon!

Be there or be square...

Spring Can Really Hang You Up the Most

photo by @irishgirl courtesy of Summer of Dresses

As many of you know, Spring in Minnesota has been a long time coming this year.  So the kick off for 2011 Summer of Dresses took me by surprise.  However, it also filled me with glee, being the kind of fake it 'till you make it kind of gal I am.  I had big plans to sew up Macaron in time for my attendance, but decided to spare myself a day of deadline sewing and head out in an outfit that at least featured a me-made skirt I recently finished.

The fabric is Echino Bus by Etsuko Furuya, in a colorway that hits every single one of my color happy places. Made into Simplicity 2226, a "learn to sew" pattern, that is super straightforward, and was amazingly true to size for me.  I love a wide yoked waistband, and the spacious pockets on this number insure its place in my summer wardrobe.

I was super excited that Patty was able to meet me there, to impress all the gorgeous stylish ladies with her fabulous dress and dazzling smile.  If you missed her post today about this great event, by all means go and check it out now, and I'm not just saying that because there's several more adorable pictures of me there..

Don't you wish you lived in Minneapolis now?