|Who's peekin' out from under a stairway?|
When I finally decided this dress would work for my figure, my main goal was to make a version I liked as much as The Sew Convert's Festivity Macaron. But without copying it. And to make it in time to wear to the Frocktails launch for the Summer of Dresses on May 3rd. I cut it out around April 24th. By May 3rd, I knew my harebrained idea of making the bodice yoke out of interlock would require some refining.
As Patty documented in her Mixed Macaron Pt 1 post designing with knits requires thinking about "negative ease". When I cut out the midriff yoke for Macaron, I didn't make any negative ease adjustments, because I was working with a stable interlock, and I just thought it would work fine made in the same sizing as the lower bodice and skirt. Quite honestly, it did- I just wasn't happy with the fit. Between the jewel neckline and the loose sleeves (cute and flexible in a woven, but NOT how I like my tees to fit) I felt it was veering towards "Dowdyville, USA" and as you may have seen on Project Runway, the term dowdy can reduce women to tears. In any case, my many adjustments began.
I lowered the neckline, not enough to change the original modest intent (which I liked), but enough to counteract the saggification effect a high neckline can have on a large chest. I also reduced the armholes by at least an inch. That way, I had the fit in the shoulders I was envisioning, without causing too much stretch where the bodice yoke joined the lower bodice. And although I had visions of trimming the cute scalloped sleeve with simple lingerie elastic, thus allowing me to leave the sleeves unlined, I couldn't find any white lingerie elastic with a looped edge anywhere. I was bummed, because if it's sold pre-packaged by Dritz, I kind of figure it should be stocked, but no such luck. So I lined the sleeves, realizing that was the easier finish to execute anyway.
One of the cool things about making the yoke out of knit, is that instead of topstitching the lower bodice to the upper yoke as instructed in the pattern, with a knit you can sew them together like a seam, since the knit with curve along with the lower bodice curves beautifully. After clipping I added some topstiching to finish and accent the seam-line, since it's my favorite design feature of the Macaron.
|You can't see, but it's a zigzag stitch for topstitching.|
The fabric is Kokka Echino Quiet Ground (here's a yard on etsy, but it seems mostly unavailable), and the upper yoke is Oliver & S City Weekend cafe dots.(we're sold out of the pink at Sewtropolis, but here it is at Fabric.com)
I feel pretty successful with my finished product, and meeting my goals, although now Patty has made her Macaron, I like hers better than both my inspiration Macaron, and my own. I like mine a lot though. The cotton-linen blend has a lot of heft to it, yet isn't stiff. (unless it gets wet, I got caught in a downpour and when this linen got wet it was like wearing an awning! The water just sluiced off the already wet dress like it was impenetrable!) I do like the tulip shaped skirt too, although I hate the lining material I chose to make the pockets out of. I wish it was just linen or cotton, and may change it. Or maybe I'll just leave the dang dress alone and leave it be! That would be growth on my part...